JANUARY 2023!!

On New's Year's Day, we woke up early and went to worship service at a local church congregation--the Pionero ward--in La Paz. I was impressed at the attendance, considering what day it was. After church we took a walk along the Malecon--the waterfront walkway along the coast of the Sea of Cortez that the locals take substantial pride in. Hired worked keep it clean and tidy and it is lined with interesting sculptures. 

"I have a paper boat
It’s made from a page
On which I have written my dreams
It has neither anchors, nor mooring ropes
I want to sail in it
On the seven seas"

-- Guillermo Gómez Macías

Casey and Sean, snuggled in for a Sunday afternoon nap. 

"Casa Sunsets"

The rooftop view from the 4 story airbnb where we stayed in La Paz for New Year's, looking out over the harbor in the Sea of Cortez.

On January 2nd, we drove to the BOA (Baja Outdoor Adventures) compound where we left our van and met up with our guide--Chino. He outfitted us with wetsuits, snorkeling gear, tents and other camping equipment and then we drove in the big transport van to meet our panga driver, Sergio, who drove us out to the uninhabited islands off the coast of La Paz--Isla Partida and Espiritu Santo. Sergio and Chino were just assigned to our family group. Since we wanted to go to church on Sunday, we were arriving late to the scheduled trip. (There was already a group out on the island with other guides and a cook that we joined up with for our meals and camping.) Sergio motored us out around the east side of Isla Espiritu Santo (where the wind and waves were more mellow) and then around to the west side of the islands where we finally landed at Ensenada III Beach to set up our camp for the night. The wind had picked up and the waves were considerably more substantial when we turned the corner and came around to the other side of the islands. Sergio was punching it through the giant waves. I thought he'd break the panga, but apparently those things are study enough to take quite the beating. 

Later in the afternoon, the wind calmed down enough for us to snag our snorkel gear and ride the panga back to past Isla Partida to the sea lion rookery where we got to jump in and snorkel with the sea lions. The sun was getting low on the horizon and the light filtering through the emerald water was magical. Juvenile sea lions swam under and around us. One was playing with the rope attached to a life preserver that Chino kept with him. 

There must have been tiny jellyfish in the water because--starting with Sean--most of us noticed some stinging on our arms and legs. Lindy has freaked out on initial entry into the water so she was already back on the boat and after Sean felt a little pin-prick sensation on his leg he came unglued and Chino brought him back to the boat. 

Chino told us that in the spring, summer and fall, the water is virtually crystal clear but during the winter months, nutrients thicken, making it more green and decreasing visibility but also drawing in whales and other seasonal visitors but it was still epic. The water was chilly enough (even with our short wetsuits on) that we didn't stay in the water nearly as long as we would have otherwise. The air and water were in the 70s but with a breeze, body temperatures drop swiftly and on the ride back to our beach camp we were all shivering.

The sea lion rookery out past Isla Partida in the Sea of Cortez.

Snorkeling with sea lions. 

Papita, our cook, kept us well fed with fish stew, chicken and sautéed veggies, fresh fish ceviche, salads and all manner of good food (and the kids liked the unlimited access to the coolers full of refreshes). 

Our camp at Ensenada III 

In the morning, Zeke and Casey woke up early to go fishing out on the point and later some of us took a hike on the island, Chino filling us with his seemingly infinite wisdom of flora, fauna and island history. 

Later that afternoon, we packed up camp, loaded the panga, and headed to Candelera Beach, further west and on Isla Espiritu Santo proper. On the way we spotted and followed a large pod of dolphins and later Lindy, Sean and Casey debarked at a rock outcropping and did some snorkeling. (The rest of us didn't't want to get wet and then freeze for the rest of the panga ride.)

I was glad that Lindy did some snorkeling that day since she'd missed out the day before. This time, it was Sean that freaked out. I think he was shocked at the chill when he jumped into the water. His wetsuit was too big so the water just poured in and didn't;t keep him very warm. Sean wouldn't put his face down into the water and eventually, Casey brought him back to the panga. Casey and Lindy, along with Chino, circumnavigated the rocks though.

When we got to Candelera Beach, Casey took Zeke and Sophie fishing and Hallee, Lindy, Sean and I waded out to an island in the bay where we'd camped, traversing through schools of mullet and chasing puffer fish. Lindy actually mostly snorkeled her way out into the bay while I pulled Sean along on a little flotation ring that I'd commandeered off the panga when we'd passed it. When we made it back to shore, Chino took us on a short hike into a slot-like canyon, filled with little arches and pockets and formations in the weathered sandstone. As we hiked back to the beach, the sun set with a grand display of light, rendering everything around us a glow of orange against the rocks. We camped in 4 tents--Hallee in one, Zeke and Sean sharing one, Soph and Lindy teamed up and then Casey and I--on a little sand bar peninsula that jutted out between two halves of a salt water lagoon that drained and filled with the changing tides. When we went to sleep that night, the lagoons were essentially empty but when we woke the next morning, we were surrounded by water, lapping only a foot away from our tents.

Hiking above Candelera Beach

Lindy, soaking up all of the glow from the setting sun!

Sean.

Candelera Beach.

On our final Isla Espiritu Santo day, Casey, Sophie and Zeke woke up early to go fishing. Hallee, Sean, Lindy and I played games in the lagoon--Monkey in the Middle (one-handed catch) and then Sea Monster in the Middle--until Chino and Sergio collected all of us and took us out to another small island where we anchored to fish some more. They also showed us an inlet where green turtles feed as well as another bay where there's a sea bird (frigate) colony, all while telling us stories about the island and its history and inhabitants--indigenous people who lived in the caves and fisherman in more modern times. Chino was so marvelously bilingual and knowledgeable that he could answer nearly any question. We pulled up and anchored on one final beach that last day and Chino and Sergio whipped up some fresh ceviche for lunch while Lindy and Sean constructed a track in the sand to roll a volleyball into the surf. After lunch we played a game of family soccer--"World Cup"--on a freshly emerged sand bar.

Our final airbnb stay was at a home near the malecon (but closer to the far end of town)--Casa Ballentina. It was a lovely spread with a pool, palm frond covered patio, a little detached bunk house for the kids and a stately villa for Casey and I (plus Lindy on the couch) with a dining room, living room and sizable kitchen and bathroom. It was well cared for and tastefully decorated with whales and beautiful art, sculptures and paintings. The pool was fun, although not heated, and several of us got right in upon arrival. 

Our first morning at Casa Ballentina, we walked to a little hippie cafe for breakfast. Along the way, we were adopted by a street dog that Sean named "Snickers." He followed us all the way to the restaurant and then into the restaurant. The waiter didn't seem to mind. The kids started begging to adopt him and somehow bring him home with us the next day. Street vendors and musicians (envision a clarinet belting out "Despacito" while a drummer accompanies) walked into the restaurant too, peddling candy and collecting donations. I think we were all disappointed when Snickers abandoned us a short while later, chasing after the next best thing on the streets of La Paz.

Sean and Lindy with Snickers

After breakfast, we walked through the streets, stopping at a shop to buy some souvenirs and then to investigate the giant stone Cathedral of La Paz, built in the second half of the 19th century.

There were services happening when we arrived and when they let out, a priest stood by the door, greeting people as they left, embracing them, "Hola pecador(a)!"

The final morning in La Paz--Friday, January 6th--we packed up early and drove the rental van back to the Los Cabos airport. We drove a different route than the one we took to get to La Paz, this time through the mountains and forests of the inner peninsula of the Baja. We found an ice cream shop just past the Tropic of Cancer where we stopped and had some crazy and unique flavors including pine nut, cactus and mushroom.

Sean, all tuckered out while waiting for our flight back to Salt Lake.

Mountain Monday with the adventure ladies.

Our friend, LaRene, owner of Millcreek Gardens, brought us a late Christmas gift when we got back from Mexico--Painted Lady caterpillars (along with food and a habitat so that we could watch them turn into butterflies) and some coloring pages. We turned it into our FHE activity that week.

Sean and I have been constructing rockets over the past several months and we decided to go flight test our fleet at the Big Cottonwood Regional Park with a few of the kids from our neighborhood.

They didn't all survive. One was even lodged deep into the ground because of the high velocity dive it took when its parachute didn't deploy but we all had fun. 

Sophie turned sweet 16 on January 17, 2023!! Hallee helped me to pick out things that she'd like for her birthday and we celebrated that night with 16 toppings to build ice cream sundaes. 

The day after she turned 16, Sophie had scheduled her driving test and passed it with flying colors!

Little Sean. He's still just a little bit little.

More Mountain Monday adventures!

So Hallee decided to try out the Wasatch girls basketball team this year. She was a fierce competitor. Her speed ensured that no one could beat her to the opposite side of the court. She played incredible, fearless defense and enjoyed learning the game. A few weeks into the season, she was warming before a game and jumped up for the rebound and came down on her right ankle. By the time Casey got her home, it was swollen and red. We took her to the Urgent Care where they x-rayed and examined it and determined that she had a severe sprain. Luckily no break but a definite end to her season. When she asked if she could play basketball I was worried about her ankles. Many of the girls are bigger than Hal and I just thought of her tiny ankles and the high incidence of injury with the sport. If you ask her, though, she had a great time while it lasted but the injury effectively ended her basketball career. 

Zeke's teacher this year, Casey Burke, encouraged the 6th graders in his class to get the inexpensive Ski Utah pass (it costs $60) so that they could ski together, often getting out of school early to do so. They skied at several resorts throughout the season and had a blast!

Silly Sean.

Sean and Lindy participated in the Primary Talent Show in January. Sean showed off some of his crafts from kindergarten--a pouch that he'd hand-sewn for his Little One (Ocean) and a hand-dyed cape.

Lindy played High Steppin' on the piano. 

Lindy and her Primary classmates also sang This Little Light of Mine.

At the end of January, we drove down to Cedar City for Beatrix's farewell. On our way, we decided to stop at Meadow Hot Springs for a Friday evening soak and found the springs full! Never have we seen so many people there. The secret is out! 

Lindy and Sean are on the far edge of the pool.

Lovely Meadow

Beatrix is going to the New York City, New York Spanish speaking mission. Lots of cousins are serving missions (or about to leave) right now. Tilman is in Santa Maria, Brazil mission; Grace is in Seattle, Washington; Emory is in the Fort Collins, Colorado mission; Arden is in the Orlando, Florida (Spanish speaking) mission and Piet just got called to the Buenos Aires, Argentina mission.

Lindy, entertaining little Luna after the farewell.

In other news, Ren finally answered Sophie and "yes," she's going to the Sweetheart's Dance!